FAQ's about purchases
How do I choose the right dog or puppy for me?
Is a purebred or non–purebred dog better for me?
Do I need to fill out an application or be approved to buy a puppy?
Do I need to make a deposit to hold a puppy?
Which payment methods do you accept?
What is included in the purchase price of my puppy?
Why do you charge sales tax when many other breeders do not?
Do you deliver?
Do you offer a warranty or health guarantee??
What advice do you give for after the purchase?
Q. What should I consider before purchasing a puppy?
The first thing that you should do before buying a puppy is determine whether or not you should have one at all. All too often, people buy puppies on impulse, without doing any breed research, or considering the change and demands that will be placed on their day–to–day lives. In the end, it´s often the pet who suffers by being raised in a home that neglects it, or sends it to a shelter where it will likely be euthanized. In most cases, the people that buy these puppies have every good intention, and are good people at heart, but made a bad choice because they were uninformed. Below are some things you should consider at length before buying a puppy. Remember, there is no need to rush into buying a pet – there will always be one available when you are ready.
What to avoid
Please avoid buying on impulse, or to fulfill a short-term need or desire. Some people will buy a puppy when they end a relationship, or loose a job, to make themselves feel better; however, in many cases that person gets another job, or a new relationship, and the puppy becomes a nuisance. Also, try not to buy someone else a puppy as a gift unless you know without a doubt that they want a dog, you know exactly what they want, and they have asked you for it.
Be careful when buying a puppy for your children. When a parent has fond memories of a dog they had as a kid, they often want their own kids to experience the same feelings of love and companionship. This is natural, and can also help kids become more responsible. But please make sure you are not forcing the puppy on them. We suggest being patient, letting them approach you first, and see if their interest in having a dog is long-term, and not just because the cool kid down the street has one. You will also need to be prepared to take care of the puppy yourself should your kids loose interest later.
The worst reason to buy a dog is because of a trend. Unfortunately it happens far to often. Eddie, the dog from the NBC show Frasier, is a great example of pet trend. Many people fell in love with him on TV, and ran out to buy one just like him. The problem is that Eddie was a dog that was very well trained, and more often then not, people were disappointed that the dog they had just bought did not act like Eddie. They realized that Jack Russell Terriers are very willful and determined little dogs that can be destructive when not trained and exercised properly. Unfortunately, many of these dogs ended up in shelters or in the street. More recently, Labradoodle and Goldendoodle (designer dogs) are the big trend – breeders try to meet the demand of the buyers, and now that their popularity is dropping back to normal levels we may again see shelters full of these beautiful dogs.
There are probably many reasons why you and your family want a dog. All of the reasons are valid – all we ask is that you think carefully about whether the reasons are enough to justify a purchase, and that your reasons are not to fulfill short–term needs.
Time Commitment
Dogs are social animals and need to feel like a part of your family – do you have the daily time to spend with your new dog? Do you have time to play, socialize, walk and train your dog? More importantly, will you have time for all of this for the next 7–15 years?
Long Term Issues
Do you move or change jobs often? What if you start a family? These are two of the most common reasons your dog will end up in a shelter. We know life is unpredictable, and sometimes we have to make hard choices unexpectedly, but at least consider how you may need to respond to future life events and what it means to your pet.
Health Issues
Do you have allergies or other health issues that could cause you to either get rid of your dog or not spend enough time with it? If you have not previously been around many different breeds of dogs, we recommend getting an allergy test. If you are even a little allergic, try staying with a friend that has a dog for two or three days and see how well you respond to it. Make sure you also take into consideration your cleaning habits. Remember, different breeds have different traits – some shed more or less then others, and some produce more allergens, but no dog is completely hypoallergenic. If you have light allergies, and are still interested in a dog, we recommend checking out this external list of Breeds for Allergy Sufferers.
Are you prepared to deal with the health issues your dog may develop in old age, or will you get rid of it when it is no longer as active and healthy as it was when it was young? No matter how healthy your puppy is now, and no matter how good the breeder was, you are still dealing with a living creature who will likely develop some sort of health issue(s) in old age.
Cost
Determining if you can afford the actual price of the dog is the easy part, but make sure to consider the ongoing expenses. There are initial costs such as a crate, collar, registration license (In some places), toys, etc. You will also have ongoing expenses such as food, treats, and flea medication if your dog goes outside. All included, your initial cost of supplies could cost $200 – $300. You will also need annual vet checks and vaccinations which can cost up to $150, and possibly training classes. You also cannot expect that your dog will never get sick or have an accident – emergency medical bills can run into the thousands. We strongly recommend getting pet insurance. Below are some links to the more popular pet insurance web sites.
VPI Pet insurance
PetCare
Pets Best
Pet Assure
Q. How do I choose the right dog or puppy for me?
First please consider adopting a dog from a shelter. There are many very good pets available at shelters who are simply there because someone did not have enough time or money to continue taking care of them. Often the dog is there because their owner did not do enough research about the particular breed, or were not ready for the responsibility of owning a pet. In some cases the dog was in a loving home, and was somehow lost and never found by its true owner.
** We recently read a story about an 8 year old Golden Retriever named Ben that was perfectly trained and had a great personality, but ended up in a shelter. Unfortunately for him, he was only there because the older couple who owned him had developed health problems and had to go to a nursing home. They did not know anyone who could take him in, nor was he allowed in the nursing home. All they could do was send him to a shelter. Eventually he was adopted and is currently living happily with his new family. The new owners were going to buy a puppy, but decided at the last minute to check the local shelter – had they not done this, Ben would have probably been euthanized.
Beware. Adopting a dog might require considerably more training, patience, love, time and money; although it will probably be a very rewarding experience. At NHP, we would rather see you adopt a dog who needs a new home (assuming you have the time and resources) then buy a new puppy from us. However, we know adoption is not for everyone, especially someone who is buying a dog for the first time. Wherever you decide to purchase your dog, please consider the following topics when researching breeds.
Your Lifestyle
Consider your lifestyle – would you prefer to take long walks with your dog or sit in the yard and bask in the sun? Some dogs are more laid–back, and others are high energy. Remember that size is not automatically an indication of the energy level or personality a breed will have. If you live in the country, you may prefer a dog with a mean bark. If you live in an apartment you might not want a constant "yippy" barker. Try to choose a dog that compliments your lifestyle.
Children & pets
Make sure the dog you are interested in is a breed that is typically good with kids, or any other pets you may have. Consider both the size and the temperament of the breed you are looking at, not just one or the other. We have a good example in our own home – we have an English Mastiff in our house that weighs well over 200 pounds. Most people would assume a dog this size would be bad with kids, but actually the opposite is true.
** A Mastiff is very calm and docile, yet protective of its family. Any stranger that comes to our door is met with a very mean sounding bark, but she rarely makes a peep otherwise. We also have two Pomeranians in the house, and she has yet to step on either one as she carefully tip–toes around them. She is great with kids – our biggest concern simply being that she could knock a toddler over by accident if she was excited and playing. Just remember that size and temperament are not directly related.
Size
How big of a dog will fit into your life? Do you have a yard, or do you live in an apartment? Do you have room in your house to crate train? Do you have a lot of valuable nick–knacks that could be knocked over if you get a large dog? Would you rather have a dog that curls up at your feet or one that cuddles on the couch? Room is an important consideration – make sure the dog you choose fits into your life physically.
Age
First of all, NEVER buy a puppy before eight weeks of age, except in the rare case that a shelter ends up with a puppy that was weaned to soon. Do not trust a breeder that is willing to sell to you before eight weeks. At NHP, we require all puppies to be at least eight weeks of age, and they must meet certain weight requirements before we will let a puppy leave our care.
You can usually buy dogs anywhere from eight weeks to six months old. Most people prefer to experience the young puppy stage (eight weeks – three months), and will train their puppy themselves, or go to training classes. If this is your choice, you will probably want to purchase an eight to ten week old puppy so that you can bond with it during it's early development, and train it specifically the way you want. However, you should be aware that if you do not properly train your puppy during the first six months, it could end up with behavior issues that are hard to reverse.
If you are looking for a dog that can perform specific tasks, such as a guard dog or other type of helping companion, then you will likely want a trained dog (six or more months old). These dogs will cost a considerable amount more then an eight week old puppy, and you will miss out on the puppy stage, but you will know it has been trained properly. Dogs are very adaptable, and you will still be able to develop a great bond with it.
Grooming
All dogs will need some sort of grooming and most dogs will shed. Some shed very little, others will shed all over your house. Some can be groomed in a couple minutes with a brush and some may need professional grooming. Remember that coat length is not always an indication of how much a dog will shed.
Training
To put it simply, every dog can be trained - some dogs are just harder to train then others. Consider the ease of training when deciding on a breed – are you going to do the training yourself, go to training classes, or pay someone to train your dog for you?
Appearance
Never buy a dog based simply on looks. Also, remember that a puppy will only look like a puppy for a short time. The internet is full of pictures for every breed, at every age. Make sure you like how the breed looks as an adult since this is the way your dog will look for most of its life.
Condition
The dog you are considering buying should have a clean shiny coat and be alert. There should be no ear, nose, or eye discharge. The breeder should have already had the puppy checked by a vet, as well as require you to do the same within the first few days of taking it home.
Vaccinations
Make sure that the breeder gives vaccinations and wormings to date, and will provide you with a record of them to take to your vet.
A good breeder will offer a refund or replacement warranty on their dogs. The conditions covered, terms, as well as the length of coverage will vary from breeder to breeder, but a breeder cannot guarantee against accidents, conditions caused by old age, communicable diseases, colds, viruses (except those with vaccines), or other non–genetic conditions that occur well after the sale. In fact, a breeder cannot even guarantee that your puppy does not have a congenital defect since most defects can not be tested for.
Look for a breeder who will stand behind their puppies, and provide you with a warranty that states what action will be taken by the breeder, as well as you, the buyer, should your puppy fall ill or die due to a congenital defect. Next we will quickly discuss a couple topics that you will want to know about warranties.
Shipping and Transportation
Most breeders will not pay for transportation costs if the dog has to be replaced. Air shipping is expensive, and breeders worry that they will spend more money to replace your dog then they got for it in the first place. NHP wants to be competitive, and as such will split the cost of air shipping should you need a new dog. If you are within 300 miles we will meet you half way by car for free.
Medical Expenses
A vast majority of breeders will not cover medical bills in their contract. This does not mean that the breeder does not stand behind the health of their puppies. A breeder realizes that no matter how careful they are in their breeding practices, that nature something does what does. No breeder that has been in business any amount of time has a 100% track record. A puppy can be checked by numerous vets, get a clean bill of health, and then still turn out to have a condition down the road that no one suspected. A good breeder will certainly refund the purchase price of a dog should a problem like this occur – but to expect that breeder to cover medical bills on a dog who is not in his care, and who he has no say about is not fair either. Whether you adopt a child or a pet, one must understand that they also take on a certain financial risk for things unknown.
If you are worried about future medical expenses, please consider getting pet insurance. You get insurance for your car, house, and your family members; it should not be any different with your pet. Below are some links to the more popular pet insurance web sites. If insurance is not for you, consider setting aside some money each month – setting aside $50 a month will leave you $3000 after five years to use as a pet emergency fund should the unexpected happen.
VPI Pet insurance
PetCare
Pets Best
Pet Assure
Things to watch out for!
Be aware of the expectations your breeder has should your dog die unexpectedly. Almost all will require a necropsy to be performed, and there is only a short time to preserve the body and perform the procedure. Because of the short time available, you will probably need to have this done at your expense. You need to be aware of this because if you call a breeder to tell them that your dog died for an unknown reason and there is no body, the breeder is not going to give you your money back – most sudden death cases are not caused by a congenital defect.
Good breeders will expect you to return your dog for a replacement or your money back if you have only had it for a short time and you find that it has a congenital problem. This is actually good for a buyer that just purchased a dog! It´s better to replace the puppy before you have fully bonded to it then to deal with whatever issue the puppy has for the rest of its life. But beware - many breeders will also expect that you return your dog regardless of how long you have had it in order to fulfill their end of the warranty. They do this because they are betting on the fact that once you have bonded with your dog, you will never want to give it up for a new one.
We find it cruel to expect someone to give up their dog, or use it as a bargaining chip in a warranty. NHP will never ask you to give up your dog to fulfill our end of the warranty - although you do have that option if you feel the issue is to much for you to deal with.
Many breeders offer replacement-only warranties after the first few days. Again, they figure you will not actually want a second dog, and since they do not offer refunds they won't have to cover their warranty.
Some warranties will become void if you have not kept up on vaccinations, or perform required testing for defects. This means that if your dog develops PRA (a genetic condition), but you are behind on your Parvo vaccination (a communicable virus), the breeder is off the hook. One should have nothing to do with the other.
Warranties may also be void if you do not get the puppy checked by a veterinarian within so many days after the sale. At NHP, we strongly urge you to get the vet check done because it is in your own best interest to know if the puppy has an issue before you grow too attached to it. However, we also believe that if you do not get the vet check done, it does not relieve us of our responsibility to warranty your puppy.
Please read any warranty a breeder offers you very carefully. If you want to see examples of some of the above warnings simply go to Google, and do a search for "puppy guarantee", or "puppy warranty". For more information on the health warranty that we provide at NHP, please see our Warranty FAQ.
Attitude of Breeder
Never buy from a breeder that is pressuring you to buy a puppy. A good breeder does not NEED to sell their puppy to you and is not rushed or under pressure to make a sale. The breeder should know what the good and bad points are of a particular breed, and should be willing to answer any questions you have about their dogs and kennel.
We cannot stress enough to research, think about it for awhile, and research some more before buying a dog. This is a long term commitment that should not be taken lightly. In the end, it's the dog that will pay, sometimes with it´s life, for the choices made by an uninformed buyer.
Q. Is a purebred or non–purebred dog better for me?
You have probably already done some research to determine what kind of dog you want. You probably have seen many web sites claiming that a purebred is "better" for you then a non-purebred, or visa-versa, as well as the reasons why. However, many web sites are biased and favor one type of dog over the other.
The truth is that in general terms neither type of dog is better or worse then the other. If you were to compare two individual dogs, you might find the non-purebred is better looking, and the purebred more intelligent. If you compare two other dogs, you might get the opposite results. Personal opinion plays a big role in preference as well. We will try to give you the facts, the positives and negatives of both purebred and non-purebred dogs, and just enough information about genetics so that you can make an informed choice on your own.
Purebreds
Most purebred dogs were developed in the 1800´s by selective, controlled breeding of just a few dogs. By breeding purebred to purebred, the same desirable genes are reproduced over and over, creating the specific traits desired in the breed. The predictable characteristics of the purebred dog are what separates it from any other breed, mixed or purebred.
Unfortunately, breeding purebred to purebred, over and over, also leads to a limited gene pool. The pool consists of all the desirable genes, but also some bad ones. Just like the good genes, the bad genes become more common with each generation, and lead to more common health issues. No matter what any breeder tells you, the lack of genetic diversity will lead to unhealthier purebred dogs in the future. Breeding practices that limit the gene pool:
• AKC now limits puppy registrations to dogs that are registered through them – this eliminates a large portion of perfectly good dogs of other registries to be bred with AKC registered dogs.
• Some breeders are breeding for appearance only. There are generally accepted standards regarding how a particular breed of dog should look. By trying to produce fine, perfect details in their puppies, breeders often reject perfectly healthy, well-tempered dogs that would increase the gene pool but are not "perfect" in appearance.
• Breeding champion dogs over and over. Again, this floods the gene pool with both the good and bad genes.
• Linebreeding. Linebreeding means that you breed grandparent to grandchild, cousin to cousin, etc. Inbreeding means that you breed parent to child, or brother to sister. Some breeders justify linebreeding by differentiating it from inbreeding, but with the gene pool already limited, neither method is beneficial to the future health of the breed.
Quick genetic review: Genes are usually recessive, meaning that there are two of each gene present in the dog. If one of the two genes is good, it will override the defective gene, and the dog will become a carrier. If both genes are bad, then the defect will become present in the dog. Without a fresh supply of genes into the gene pool, the chance of a dog having two defected genes greatly increases.
Physical traits
With purebreds, you can be pretty sure what a puppy will look like as an adult because they have been bred to look a certain way. If you have any preferences for coat length, shedding, or size, you can probably find a purebred dog that has those characteristics. Just be aware that many breeds come in different types. Pomeranians come in different sizes and colors. Golden retrievers come in different shades of golden colors, and different types of coats (short and silky, long and wavy, etc). If you have a very specific preference, then you will need to find a breeder that consistently produces puppies with the traits you seek.
Temperament
Purebred dogs have predictable temperaments. There are certain breeds that are typically high-energy or low-energy, some that are good with children and some that are not. You can probably find a purebred breed that will be likely to display the traits and temperament you desire. However, this does not mean all purebreds will act exactly the same – they are still individuals, and their personality is still effected by their environment. You can ruin the good traits a dog has with improper training.
The temperament of a purebred dog can be much harder to change, if not impossible, so picking the right purebred is important. You will probably have to live with whatever aspects of the breed´s temperament you don´t like. Also, the traits tend to be more extreme in purebreds – very energetic, very lazy, very stubborn, etc.
Many purebred dogs were bred for a specific purpose or job, such as guarding, digging, herding sheep, chasing, or hunting. Make sure that you are aware of these behaviors before picking a breed, as they can become annoying, possibly dangerous (such as chasing cars), and very hard to change.
Health
There are hundreds of genetic defects documented in dogs, and the rates are much higher in purebred dogs. Unfortunately, most tests can only tell if the disorder is present at the time of the test – they cannot tell if the disorder will show up next month or years later, nor can they tell if a dog is a carrier who is passing a bad gene on to its offspring. This is why even very good breeders can sell puppies that have a recessive defect and not know it. DNA testing is better, but it is only available for a couple conditions for select breeds. No amount of DNA testing will ever eliminate genetic defects.
Purebreds tend to have a shorter life span – as low as seven years. Additionally, purebreds with abnormal builds may have an increased chance for health problems. For instance, larger dogs are more prone to hip Dysplasia, Dachshunds may have back issues, and Pugs can overheat in hot weather because of their short nose and difficulty breathing.
Cost
Purebreds tend to cost much more, mostly because of the health problems mentioned earlier. For instance, Pugs will cost more because moms often need c–sections, and have a hard time caring for their pups when they are very young because of their short muzzle.
You may spend $500 to thousands for a purebred. You may even find a huge price difference from one breeder to another. First try to determine the average price that most reputable breeders charge for the breed you are interested in; this way you will know when a breeder wants a lot more (or a lot less) money then the average breeder charges. A good breeder will tell you exactly why they charge more or less then other breeders, so that you can make an informed choice. Move on if they cannot give you an explanation, or pressure you to purchase from them before you shop around.
Non-purebreds (also called "mixed-breed" or "cross-breed")
There are really two types non-purebred dogs. There are "mutts", or dogs that have bred randomly, either on their own, or by a breeder, which may have many different breeds in them, or no particular pure breeds at all. There are also non-purebreds that have been bred in a controlled way, such as specifically taking a known purebred poodle, and breeding it with a known purebred Golden Retriever. All of our mixed-breed puppies at NHP are bred using two purebred parents, or in some cases one purebred and one non-purebred that has purebred parents.
Physical traits
A non-purebred dog will not be as predictable in physical appearance as a purebred dog. There is no guarantee what a puppy will grow up to look like, and there is no way to tell what purebreds (if any), produced the puppy – this is a case where you need to find a breeder you can trust. Even if you know the parents you will still not be able to predict what traits the puppy will have as it gets older. For instance, not all Goldendoodle puppies develop the non-shedding coat of his poodle parent.
Temperament
The temperament of a non–purebred is once again, unpredictable. A Pug / Jack Russell mix may have the temperament of either the Pug or the Jack Russell. However, non-purebreds do tend to be less extreme in their traits then purebreds, and are more likely to have temperaments that will lie somewhere in the middle of the two breeds. This means that a non-purebred could get all the bad traits from each parent, or all of the good ones, but, more then likely it will be a mix of both.
Non-purebreds are usually easier to train and break of bad habits. They are not so tightly programmed to act a certain way – their personalities are more flexible, and they tend to have fewer neurotic habits. When a non-purebred does develop an extreme trait, it tends to be due from a lack of training, rather then genetics.
If you prefer a dog with specific skills such as hunting, guarding, or herding, then you should always choose a purebred.
Health
Non-purebreds tend to be healthier due to better genetic diversity, and could live twice as long a purebred. With parents of two separate breeds, the chance of a non-purebred puppy getting the same two defective genes is greatly decreased. In fact, the chance of a serious genetic defect are so much less in a non-purebred dogs that most breeders will not do medical testing of the parents. When you research a non-purebred, compare the common defects of both parents. If there are too many like-defects, the non-purebred could still inherit them.
Avoid breeders that are linebreeding or inbreeding non-purebreds. These practices still limit the gene pool, and provide no benefit to the offspring.
Remember, buying a non-purebred does not guarantee that your dog will never get sick, or develop health problems later in life due to old age - some things are just Mother Nature.
Cost
You can usually buy a non-purebred dog for much less then purebreds, especially if you get one from a shelter. Unfortunately, you will never know for sure what you are getting unless you buy one from a breeder you trust. The money you save on the purchase price of the dog can be used for other expenses such as toys, treats, vaccinations, and vet expenses, should they occur.
Summary
As you can see, the decision to buy a purebred or non-purebred dog is largely a personal choice. Both types of dog have their good and bad points, and all are valuable to someone; however, not every person or breeder feels this way, and sometimes emotions become heated over the topic. Do not let anyone, including a breeder, bully you into purchasing one type over the other. Bottom Line:
• If you want a healthy, easier to train, long term companion and you are not concerned about awards or titles, and you are willing to accept that you may not get the exact personality you expect, then try looking at some non-purebred options.
• If you want to enter contests, desire predictable appearance and temperament, or need a dog that has specific working skills, and can accept that you might have more health problems to deal with, start by looking at purebreds.
Good Luck! – We will always be available if you have further questions.
Q. Do I need to fill out an application or be approved to buy a puppy?
We ask that once you decide that you want a puppy from us that you fill out a quick online application. It is shorter then most, and we try to pry as little as possible. We just want to know that our puppies are going to good homes. To fill out an application please visit our Apply Page.
Q. Do I need to make a deposit to hold a puppy?
Yes. We will ask you to agree to our deposit and warranty terms when you fill out the application. The deposit amount is 50% of the full purchase price.
A portion of the deposit, $100, is non-refundable. We do this so that people are
certain that they want the dog before they reserve it. It also helps to offset the cost of placing a second
ad to find the puppy a new home. If a problem is found with your puppy during its final vet check, or if
we cannot sell you the puppy for any reason on our behalf, NHP will refund your entire deposit.
You can view our entire deposit agreement here: Deposit Agreement.pdf (140k)
Q. Which payment methods do you accept?
We accept cash, money order, and cashiers checks for deposit or final pickup.
We accept credit/debit cards via Paypal securely online, but there is a transaction fee since we are not a large business. The fee is about 3% of the transaction amount. All transactions are secure. We do not accept credit/debit cards in person or over the phone. If you want to use credit/debit or Paypal online for final payment it must be submitted at least 24 hours before picking up your puppy. Make sure to inform us ahead of time so that we can send you a new invoice and link.
We will accept a personal check for a deposit or full payment as long as it is at least one week before you pick up the puppy. We will not accept a personal check for final payment at pick-up.
Q. What's included in the purchase price of my puppy?
Your price includes the puppy of course, as well as our new owner packet which consists of the following:
• Purchase Agreement and Warranty (see Warranty FAQ for details)
• A copy of your application
• Medical & Vaccination Record
• Statement of Health from our veterinarian
• APRI Registration papers (Purebred puppies only)
• HomeAgain® Microchip tracking with life-time registration (If Purchased)
• Approximately a one week supply of puppy food
• 1 tube of Nutrical with syringe (for certain breeds when traveling far)
• After-sale care instructions and recommendations
Q. Why do you charge sales tax when many other breeders do not?
Any legitimate business that sells dogs directly to the public is required to pay sales tax. We must charge sales tax if you pick up your puppy from our home, or if we deliver it in our vehicle. The only time we do not need to charge you sales tax is when we ship your puppy out of state via an independent carrier - a pet transportation service, airline, etc.
It is very easy for the state to see if you are paying sales tax if you report income from selling dogs. As such, if your dog is not being shipped to you from another state, and the breeder is not charging you sales tax, then they may not be reporting their income either. If they are willing to lie to the government about their income, they may also be lying to you about their puppies. Beware.
Our tax rate in Iowa is 7%.
Yes. We recommend that you pick your puppy up in person, but if that is not possible you have three other options:
You can use a pet delivery service, some of which go door-to-door. You are responsible for all charges and agreements with the service, as well as any issues that occur during shipping. You must work out a pick-up time and date with us in advance so that we can make sure we are home and your puppy is ready to go.
We can deliver by vehicle up to 150 miles. The fee varies due to gas prices, and whether we can combine trips for multiple puppies. Please ask us for a quote to your area.
We can also ship via airline. The cost is $300 or less to most places and includes the ticket, a pet taxi, toy, blanket, and delivery to the airport. Airlines do place restrictions on when pets can travel, and some areas may cost extra. You must tell us that you want to airship before making a deposit so we can verify flights and availability. The shipping fee will need to be paid before we put your puppy on a plane.
Q. Do you offer a warranty or health guarantee?
Of course! In fact, we believe that we offer one of the best puppy warranties that you will find. If you have not already done so, please read the warranty section of our FAQ on choosing a dog to see what some breeders put in their warranty to ensure that they rarely, if ever, have to fulfill a warranty claim. Some of the highlights of our warranty include:
• Your puppy is guaranteed to be free of any disease or sickness for 7 days
from the date of purchase. This includes, but is not limited to, diseases such as Parvovirus,
Distemper, and hepatitis.
• Should your puppy develop hip Dysplasia within the first 5 years
from date of birth, NHP will refund the full purchase price of the puppy, or provide the buyer a new
puppy of the same breed, at buyer´s choice.
• We guarantee that your puppy will have better then grade 2 knees (Patella Luxation) on the date it is sold. (99% of the time they will be 0, and if they are not then we will inform you before buying) Should your puppy develop Patella Luxation of grade 3 or worse within 8 years from date of birth, NHP will refund the full purchase price of the puppy, or provide the buyer a new puppy of the same breed, at buyer´s choice.
We want to clarify this part of our warranty. The reason we allow just over a 1 rating when we sell a puppy is because the test can result in a different rating from one vet to another, is not always reliable until a puppy is six months old due to the surrounding joint muscles not always being fully tightened. It is very rare that a knee rating is not perfect when it leaves us at eight weeks.
Pomeranians are the only breed we currently sell that have a major genetic pre-disposition to bad knees. It is so common in this breed that it is difficult to find lines where it has not shown up. We can say that our parents have perfect knees, and that in the few cases where knees were not perfect, they we still well within a range that causes no pain or issues for the puppy. If your puppy develops bad knees, it should show up well before the 8 year warranty expires.
• Should your puppy ever die due to a congenital defect or suffer a moderate to
severe loss in quality of life due to a congenital defect, NHP will refund the full purchase price
of the puppy, or provide the buyer with a new puppy of the same breed, at buyer´s choice.
• We will never expect you to give up your adult dog to fulfill a claim. We will never ask you
to feed certain brands of food, give vitamins, prove vaccinations or anything else to fulfill a
claim – these things have nothing to do with congenital or genetic defects, and are put in warranties
so that breeders never have to make good on their part of the agreement.
You can view our full warranty here: Warranty.pdf (450K)
Q. What advice do you give for after the purchase?
Your relationship does not need to end when you take your puppy home! Feel free to contact us at any time if you need advice or have questions about your puppy. If you believe your puppy is having a health problem you can call us 24 hours a day. If you call outside normal business hours, we will not answer, but will check messages to see if there is an emergency and call you back as needed; however, please remember that we are a family business, and may not always be home. Never wait for us to return your call if you believe you puppy is in immediate danger. Below are some additional tips.
Adjustment
Your new puppy should provide you with many years of love, companionship and enjoyment. When you take your puppy home, you must remember that it is still a baby and needs extra care for some time to assure that it stays happy and healthy. Your puppy may go through a short adjustment period as it is accustomed to being with several siblings and may find being alone a bit frightening. Plenty of love and attention will help them get through this stage quickly.
Food
Your puppy is growing quickly and that means that it will need to have high quality food and water available at all times. We recommend that you immediately begin weaning your puppy to your choice of high quality puppy food by mixing it with the food we provide in increasing ratios. This will help your puppy adjust to the new food with little or no distress. Change in food and the stress of being in a new home may cause your puppy to have slightly loose bowel movements for the first few days. If your puppy is eating and drinking well, this should not be cause for alarm.
• Your puppy should have food and water available to him 24 hours a day, even through the night, until directed otherwise by your veterinarian.
Health Crashes
Your puppy will no doubt play hard and use up a lot of energy. A health crash can come very quickly if your puppy suddenly stops eating or drinking and you do not notice.
A crash occurs when the puppy becomes hypoglycemic. Some small breed puppies and most micro puppies (under 2lbs) are unable to store the amount of sugar their bodies require until they are 3 to 4 months old. If the puppy is eating regularly and resting appropriately, this should not be an issue. Some physical signs of a health crash are extreme lethargy and weakness which can lead to seizures and possibly death if not treated immediately. If this happens to your puppy, the best way you can immediately treat this at home is to give the puppy Nutrical in small amounts.
Only give the Nutrical if the puppy is conscious and able to swallow. Nutrical is a high calorie dietary supplement which quickly brings the blood sugar levels up and gives you the time needed to contact either your veterinarian or NHP. We have provided you with one tube of Nutrical. We suggest that you give your puppy approximately one teaspoon of the Nutrical each night before bed, each morning, and any time they have been playing for an extended amount of time until the Nutrical runs out.
The first sign of a problem is usually dehydration. A simple way for a new owner to check for dehydration is by pinching some of the bare skin on the puppy´s belly (not hard enough to hurt). If when you let go, the skin does not snap back quickly and return to normal (up to a second or so), but instead remains creased, you puppy may be dehydrated. We have provided you with a small feeding syringe in the event that you feel your puppy is dehydrated. If this happens, fill the syringe with water and place a couple drops of water at a time in your puppy´s mouth. Most puppies will swallow the water as you do this. If your puppy does not swallow, do not try to force the water as this could cause the puppy to breathe some into their lungs. Continue giving your puppy several CC´s of water every 20 to 30 minutes until you either see your puppy drinking on their own or you have received further instruction from your veterinarian or NHP.
Playtime & Sleep
Playtime is very important to speed up the bonding process and provide your puppy with adequate mental and physical exercise on a daily basis. It is also important to remember that your puppy needs to nap several times a day and be allowed to get a full night sleep as well. When your puppy seems tired and wants a nap, be sure to provide it with a quiet, cozy place to curl up. Be especially careful if you have children – they can easily overplay a new puppy.
Toys/Chews
Toys are a great idea for puppies as they love to play and chew on everything, especially when they are teething. Your puppy is familiar with knotted chew ropes, tennis balls, assorted dog toys that squeak, hard rubber balls with bells inside and animal hooves and bones. For your puppy´s safety, only provide bones/chews that are too large for them to swallow – bones should never come from any type of poultry.
Training
Your puppy has not begun any sort of formal house or behavioral training, but it should be started immediately. Without proper training your puppy may develop behavior problems. Hopefully you already have experience in training, or have researched it before purchasing a puppy – if not, we strongly recommend a trip to a pet or book store where you can find many good books for beginners. The internet is also full of valuable resources. Remember that consistency is the most important part of training.
Your Next Veterinarian Appointment
Your puppy should be seen by your Veterinarian within 96 hours to verify it is in great health. Your Vet can also help you plan a diet for your puppy, give you information on spay/neutering, and set up a vaccination schedule.
FAQ's about our puppies
What are the developmental periods in a puppy's life?
Dewclaws – what are they and do you remove them?
Have your puppies been spay/neutered?
Have your puppies been vaccinated?
Do you dock tails and crop ears?
Are your puppies microchipped?
Are your puppies registered?
Are your puppies checked by a veterinarian?
Do your puppies live in the house with you?
What kind of personality will my puppy have?
Do your puppies have championship bloodlines?
Q. When is the earliest I can take my puppy home?
We are licensed by the USDA, and as such cannot legally sell a puppy before eight weeks of age. Even if this were not the case, we would not sell puppies earlier then eight weeks because it is not in the best interest of the puppy, or the new owner. The eighth week is the beginning of a period in the puppy's life that it will develop the best bond with his/her new owner, and is the optimal time to start formal training. Our next FAQ regarding puppy development will also help to explain why the eighth week is so important.
There are some breeds that we will keep longer then eight weeks to ensure they are developed and healthy enough for a new home. For instance, we will not sell a Pomeranian until it weights at least two pounds, or is ten weeks old, whichever comes first. These breeds will always be identified in the litter description. By monitoring the health and weight of a puppy in the weeks leading up to the eighth week, we can usually make an accurate prediction about when the puppy will be allowed to go to its new home
** You should never buy a puppy from a breeder who is willing to sell to you before eight weeks of age.
Q. What are the developmental periods in a puppy's life?
Understanding the early developmental stages of a dog's life will help you to understand why and how we make certain decisions at NHP regarding our puppies. We also believe that when our customers understand these stages, along with our other FAQ's, that they will be better informed and ultimately more prepared to raise their new puppy. We have tried to give only the most important information here to keep it short, and encourage anyone interested in purchasing a puppy from either NHP or another breeder to look it over.
Weeks 1–3 (0–21 days)
The birth of a litter can be very stressful for the mother, and quite traumatic for the puppies as well. Until birth, the puppies have been getting constant nourishment and a steady temperature inside the mother's womb. Once born, they are completely dependent on their mother to survive; they cannot hear, see, regulate their temperature, or even urinate/defecate without help from mom. However, they do feel touch, and can taste and smell mom's milk. During this time, the puppy has almost no mental capacity, cannot learn, and reacts only to its basic needs – warmth, hunger and sleep. They are fully capable of crying loudly if any of these important needs are not being met. During the first week, we handle the puppies only as needed to check their health and development. We try to let mom do what she does best; care for her pups.
Between ten and fourteen days the puppies begin to undergo some amazing changes – their eyes and ears open, and their first teeth begin to show. Until now, both their eyelids and ear canals have been fused shut. Even with their eyes now open the puppies only see light and shadow and cannot focus clearly. Many puppies also have a blue hue in their eyes that usually disappears by week six or seven. When their ears open, they can already hear quite well.
For the next seven days (14–21), sleep still occupies much of their time, but they begin to develop an awareness of the other puppies in the litter. They usually cannot walk yet, but do prop themselves up and are able to easily crawl towards or away from heat sources. This is also the age when basic socialization begins with others – we handle them daily from this age until they leave us for their new homes.
Weeks 4–5 (22–35 days)
The fourth and fifth weeks of development are very important both physically and emotionally. Physically, they sleep less, and learn to go to the bathroom on their own. Their sense of smell and hearing are refined, and their sight is dramatically improved. During these weeks they also begin to stand and walk; they are uncoordinated and fall down often at first, but are quite confident by the time they reach six weeks of age. By week six, they walk, bark, wag their tail, eat solid food, and generally begin to act like dogs – This is one of our favorite time periods as a breeder.
This age is a critical time for emotional development. They are much more social with their litter mates, who have now become the most influential part of their life. They start to learn simple games, dominance, posturing, and inhibitive biting. Mom begins to naturally wean her pups at this age by spending less time with them, and she also teaches the puppies' basic manners and submissiveness; In fact, puppies that are completely removed from their mother and litter mates during this period tend to be more aggressive and harder to train.
Puppies are also very curious at this age and start to explore their surroundings. Providing a safe environment and socialization with people and other dogs is very important. If they are not treated and socialized properly, they may develop shyness or nervous personalities which often stay with them throughout life. Besides daily handling and attention, we also begin to introduce our puppies to some of the more common sights and sounds found in most homes. We play music throughout the day, they hear the phone ring, they get toys and treats, etc.
Week 6 (36–42 days)
On the beginning of the sixth week we completely wean the puppies from mom, although we may do it earlier during the fifth week if the litter is large and well developed. Weaning before the fifth week can cause health problems for the pups, or even death; weaning later then six weeks will cause undo stress and fatigue on the mother, and can permanently stunt the puppies' emotional development. During the sixth week, the puppy's nervous system and senses become fully developed. Their coordination is refined, and as they become more curious about the world around them they will explore farther from the rest of the litter. This is also the time when they begin to understand the relationship between dog and man.
Weeks 7–8 (43–49 days)
The seventh week is usually the last week the puppies will spend with us and the rest of the litter. Keeping litters together for to long can result in puppies who are either to shy or to aggressive. By the end of this week they are considered fully developed emotionally. The puppies usually have short attention spans at this age, but they are ready and willing to learn – and they will learn fast. What the puppies learn between weeks eight and sixteen will stay with them the rest of their lives.
Weeks 8–12+
Until week eight, we have raised your puppy to be a healthy, well–adjusted and happy dog. Your puppy will be inquisitive and energetic, and will begin to focus on you and the relationship you have with each other. When you get your puppy it will be ready and wanting to learn but will not yet be trained. It will be critical that you train your puppy to be the companion you want. Negative behaviors learned at this age may be very difficult to reverse. This is also the time when your puppy may become fearful of things that he or she is not familiar with. This is normal and does not mean that your dog has a problem or that it will always be fearful.
Remember that the personality of your puppy is very much dependant on the environment which it is raised. We have laid the groundwork to get your puppy off to the right start. It will have a temperament in line with its breed standard, and will be well socialized. However, your puppy's personality will be molded by the way you raise and train your puppy – obviously we cannot control how your puppy is raised after it leaves us. We firmly believe that every puppy that leaves our home will grow up to be a loving, faithful companion with a proper temperament and personality as long as they are treated, loved and trained properly.
There are obviously other stages of a dog's life that will occur after twelve weeks,
and we highly suggest that all new parents of a puppy learn about them. There is an abundance of information on the web and in print regarding
both developmental stages and training. Below are some links yo get you started.
Puppy development at Petcaretips.net
More puppy development
Books:
Another Piece of the Puzzle: Puppy Development
Dog Training for Dummies
Q. Dew claws – what are they and do you remove them?
A dewclaw is the extra toe (or thumb), on the inner rear–side of the leg, above the other toes and below the rear heal pad. Dewclaws almost always appear on the front legs, and occasionally on the rear legs. The main concern for dogs with dewclaws is that they can get caught on something and break, causing pain and possible infection; although, this is usually only a concern for hunting or working dogs. Most of the time the dewclaw never touches the ground and is often considered a non–functional and unnecessary feature, however, some recent studies suggest that the front Dewclaws are often used when a dog is running at high speeds, changing direction, and when making abrupt stops. With most dogs the claws can be either removed or left intact and still conform to breed standards.
If a puppy is born with rear dewclaws, we remove them within the first three days. Removal at this age is easy – There is no pain for the puppy because its nervous system is not yet developed. Bleeding is minimal, and the risk for infection is low.
The removal of the front dewclaw it debatable, and there does
not appear to be a clear right or wrong answer even among experts. Since we mainly sell small breed puppies that will be
raised in homes that have low risk for dewclaw injury, and there is at least some evidence that the front dewclaws are
used part of the time, we have decided that we will not remove them. If you wish to have this done anyway, we recommend finding a breeder that removes them at birth.
Removing dewclaws when a dog is older requires surgery, which has its own complications, can be expensive, and is
usually painful for the dog. However, each situation is different, and you should consult your vet if you have an adult dog
that appears to be at risk for injury and may need them removed. Since the dewclaws do not generally touch the ground you
may also need to clip them occasionally.
You can learn more at Wikipedia.
Q. Have your puppies been spay/neutered?
Puppies that leave our home between 8 and 10 weeks old have not yet been spay/neutered.
We strongly encourage all owners to spay/neuter by the time their dog reaches 6 months of age. The
procedure can be done as early as 8 weeks, but we recommend waiting a little longer and letting your puppy get accustomed to his/her
new home and develop a bond with you before the procedure. There are many resources both online and in print if you are
not already familiar with the many benefits of having your pet spay/neutered. You can start here:
American Partnership For Pets
Q. Have your puppies been vaccinated?
Of course! You will receive a copy of the medical record for your puppy when you pick it up. You will want to bring this to your first veterinarian visit. We give your puppy the following:
• Iron
• De–Wormers.
• Kennel Cough vaccine
• Parvo vaccine
• Distemper vaccine
• Adenovirus vaccine (Type 1 & Type 2)
• Parainfluenza vaccine
You can view an example of our medical record here: Medical Record.pdf (100k)
Q. Do you dock tails and crop ears?
We dock tails and/or crop ears only in dogs where it is part of the standard and typical look for that breed. We do this during the first three to seven days of the puppy's life when it does not cause pain. We will never crop ears or dock tails on breeds where it is not the standard.
Q. Are the puppies microchipped?
HomeAgain® microchipping is available for only $35. The price includes the chip, the installation, and you will also
receive dog tags, a wallet id card, and free lifetime registration in the national database.
Find out more about microchipping:
Microchipping information at Wikepedia
Visit Avid
Q. Are your puppies registered?
Yes. All of our purebred puppies are registered with eiter America's Pet Registry, Inc. or AKC. We chose
APRI in many cases because they have great prices, customer service and registration policies that promote diverse gene pools. Most of our parents
are registered with both AKC and APRI.
Q. Are the puppies checked by a veterinarian?
Yes, all of our puppies are checked at seven weeks by a licensed veterinarian with over 30 years of experience. Our vet provides a certificate of health when he checks your puppy, and a copy of this will be included with your final purchase packet.
If a problem is found with your puppy during its final vet check we will contact you immediately and give you the option of a full deposit refund. One exception to this is if your puppy has a small belly hernia caused by its mom pulling to hard on the umbilical cord. In this case we will have the hernia fixed at our expense. If we can not get the appointment quickly, you may need to have your vet remove a couple small stitches. Once the hernia is fixed it will not cause any issues later in life.
Q. Do your puppies live in the house with you?
No. We realize that there is a common perception that responsible breeders raise puppies in their home. This may work out fine if a breeder has only an occasional litter, and has the room to raise the puppies in their home; however this is not practical for many breeders. Below are some of the factors a breeder has to consider when it comes to deciding on where their puppies will be raised.
Space
For the first six weeks, a mother needs a safe, secure space where she can raise her pups. Most breeders do this by building a "whelping box" in such a way that the mother can keep her pups all together in one spot, and also step out for a break when she wants. If you have only one mother, this can be done in the house. But if you have multiple litters, each mother will need their own secure area to raise her pups. A breeder with only three females breeding twice a year is almost guaranteed to have multiple litters being raised at one time. In this case, a breeder should have at least three or four whelping areas. These whelping areas must be built in such a way as to make cleaning easy, while still keeping the puppies warm and dry – this often involves considerable custom building and altering of a room. The space needed adds up quick.
Cleanliness
Keeping the whelping area clean and disinfected is one of the most important jobs when raising puppies. With a proper whelping area this is not very hard to accomplish, especially when the puppies are younger then six weeks. However, during the sixth and seventh weeks, the puppies will be moving around and eating more – and making a mess. Anyone who has potty trained a puppy knows that they will have many accidents before they learn what to do. Imagine having a litter of eight puppies in your home to clean up after – imaging having multiple litters. Obviously it would be very difficult to maintain a sanitary environment in a house with numerous six–to–eight–week old puppies that have not been potty trained.
Environment
Consider things such as temperature and humidity. In our house we prefer a temperature under 70 degrees – but our young puppies cannot regulate their own temperature and need a room temperature in the high 70's, with low humidity. If we whelped our puppies in our house, we would need to close off a room to do this, install separate heating, ac, and humidity controls. Then of course we would need to figure out how to ventilate the room properly. By building a separate, modern kennel detached from our house, we are able to regulate all the environmental factors to create a clean healthy environment for each mom and her litter, without sacrificing the space and comfort in our home.
Do the puppies get the same attention as they would in the house? Yes, we believe they do. We average eight to twelve hours a day in our kennel spending time with the puppies – more then most people spend with their new pup on an average day. In fact, we actually want the puppies to be accustomed to being left alone for short periods during the day and also throughout the night; however, we use the term "alone" loosely - we are referring to not having people around. Every puppy has at least one canine companion at all times, usually more, until they go to their new home. By doing this we hope to make the transition to a new home easier for your puppy, for working adults, and those who choose to crate train. When we are not actually in the kennel, we monitor it remotely from our house via temperature sensors, cameras, and an alarm system.
And finally.... we need breaks too! Most people know how important it is to take time away from work now and then, and when you deal with live animals it is especially important. If we had to raise all our puppies and their mothers (in addition to our other three house dogs) in the house, we could get burned out, which might lead to costly mistakes in their health care. This is more then just a job for us, and for the sake of both our dogs and ourselves, we have to enjoy doing what we do.
Q. What kind of personality will my puppy have?
Unfortunately we cannot tell you exactly what kind of personality a dog will develop after moving to a new home. The personality that a dog exhibits as it gets older is very much molded by the environment they grow up in – they quickly adapt to their surroundings, and learn how to deal with people by the interactions they have with them. On one hand this is good - this is what makes a dog relatively easy to train when done properly at an early age. However, their adaptability can also work to a disadvantage when the proper training is not provided, or if the dog is not treated properly. Any bad traits that a dog learns in his early life will likely be difficult, if not impossible, to correct later. Because of this, we cannot stress enough how important it is that you treat your puppy in a kind and loving way, while also being firm and consistent in your training. Remember that when your puppy is young you need to be the parent, so if you are new to this then do your research – Undesirable behaviors are usually caused by a lack of training knowledge, not of a lack of love.
When our puppies leave for their new homes, they have had positive interaction with both people and other dogs (and sometimes even ferrets). We guarantee that our purebred dogs will have the traits and temperaments associated with their breed standards. With non-purebred puppies there is more guesswork involved – there are no defined, standardized traits that are accepted by all. If you have questions about the personality of a non-purebred after reading our FAQs, please feel free to contact us.
Q. Do your puppies have championship bloodlines?
Some do, and we may mention that fact in the litter's description, however, we do not charge more for puppies with championship bloodlines. We breed our puppies to be healthy, conform to breed standards, and provide years of companionship. When it comes to providing a quality pet, we do not consider one puppy more valuable then the next simply because a relative is a champion.
While having championship bloodlines may increase your chances of your puppy becoming an award winning show dog, it does not guarantee it. We have seen puppies with no championship background win tournaments, and visa–versa. If you are specifically looking for a show–quality dog, we recommend finding a breeder that specializes in the specific breed you are interested in, and has parents who have a history of producing award winning puppies.
FAQ's about our kennel
What is the history of NHP?
Is NHP licensed?
What are the living conditions like for your dogs?
Can I visit your kennel?
Q. What is the history of NHP?
First, we would like to thank you for taking the time to read our FAQ´s. We have spent a considerable amount of time trying to make our web site as informative and helpful as possible for both new and experienced dog owners. In our research we found that many breeder web sites are filled with half-truths, bias, or politically motivated rhetoric; we have tried to avoid this, and instead concentrate on our puppies, kennel, and giving you the information you need to make an informed choice. Before telling you more about our kennel, we want to share with you the pledges we have made to ourselves and to you our customer.
• Priority - Our dogs come first! When making any decision, no matter how small, we always consider
the health and happiness of our dogs above anything else.
• Honesty - We want to be completely honest with you. We will try to give as much information
as we can up front so that you can make informed choices. If we have forgotten anything please feel free to contact us.
• Integrity - First and foremost, we stand behind our dogs. We believe we have one
of the best warranties you will find, and we will never write something into your contract that will
force you to choose between your dog and making a claim on a warranty.
• Fairness - We also pledge to be fair in our pricing. You probably won´t find our
puppies to be the cheapest around, but you won´t see us charging thousands of dollars either. One
drawback to being on the Web is that our puppies will be considered expensive in some markets, and
cheap in others; however, we believe we are selling you a quality pet, and intend for our prices to
fairly reflect that.
NHP mainly consists of two people; Myself (Joe), and my wife Annette – Although, we do occasionally hire kids from the high school to help with chores, grooming, etc. Raising dogs is a job that never ends, and it can be quite stressful at times. There is no "end of the day", no timecard to punch out, and barely a weekend to speak of, much less a vacation. We do not make what most people would consider a lot of money, but we certainly don´t breed dogs to loose money either. Being in this business is something we enjoy, and provides us with a little supplemental income. When it comes down to it, the breeders who are in it just for the money will make plenty of it, and the dogs will suffer in the process. We love our dogs, and we love what we do – the money is always secondary.
Annette is 35, and started breeding dogs in 1993 with the guidance of her uncle who has been doing it much longer. For a few years she raised her dogs while still working full time taking care of the physically handicapped. I, on the other hand, did not know much about dogs until I met Annette - I was, and still am, employed in the network technology field. It was not until we got married in the spring of 2004 and were looking for a house that Annette brought up the idea of finding a place that had a lot of room so that she could raise dogs exclusively.
Since I was employed in Minneapolis we naturally tried to find a place in Minnesota – but most towns have limits to how many dogs you can have (often just 2 or 3), or charged outrageous fees per dog. Eventually we found a great old farm house with plenty of land just over the border in Lake Mills, Iowa. This location benefits us because we have no limits on growing our business as long as we continue to properly care for our dogs. On the other hand, there are a lot of people who write articles that claim that anyone who raises dogs in Iowa must have a "puppy mill". We know this is far from true, but it is a misconception that we have to deal with when trying to sell our puppies.
So, in the summer of 2004 we moved to our little farm house and built a new kennel. In September of that year we filed with the state and became NHP. We now have a kennel, a large whelping room where each litter has their own whelping area and common play area, and plenty of retirement space for dogs that cannot be bred for one reason or another (we never put dogs down if they can no longer breed). We plan on adding to our whelping area soon, and have plans to enclose an additional acre of yard area for our dogs to spend time in.
Sharing our home with us are our fish, two Cockatiels named Tigger and Griff, three Ferrets named Wolfie, Beethoven and Howard, two Pomeranians by the names of Charles Barkington (Charlie) and Willard McGruffinstein (Willie), and Morgan, our English Mastiff.
Annette is really the backbone of the business. She takes care of our adult dogs, helps the mothers through labor as needed, cares for the puppies, and gives vaccinations and minor medical treatment if needed. She also keeps the kennel clean, grooms the dogs, brings them to the Vet, keeps track of medical records, and usually talks to the people who call to inquire about our puppies. Most importantly, she spends quality time with the puppies and also the adults. She truly has a full time + job.
I (Joe) on the other hand, still commute 127 miles each way to Minneapolis five days a week to work my day job so that we never have to worry about money getting in the way of our dogs. With the time I have left I take care of finances, databases, building this web site, advertising, and building and fixing everything from whelping pens to exhaust fans. I also help Annette where I can, and learn about the medical side of things in the process. I enjoy spending a lot of time playing with both our adults and puppies, especially on the weekends.
We really do want to change the perception that most people have about dog breeders, and hope that our web site makes that apparent. Please contact us if you have any other questions about us or our kennel, and thanks again for taking the time to read our FAQs!
Of course! We are licensed by the state of Iowa as a business, by Iowa's animal health services (APHIS), and also the USDA (Our license number is 42-A-1423). We are a class A kennel, meaning we can sell puppies to the public, but cannot buy puppies for resale (this is called puppy brokering, and since we are not licensed to do it, you know that every puppy is born here). We are surprise inspected at least twice a year, and have passed all inspections with flying colors. Our Vet is also on site regularly to check dogs and puppies, and also authors our health and exercise plan for the USDA.
Q. What are the living conditions like for your dogs?
All of our adult dogs have the option of going in and out as they please, and of course do NOT live on wire. They have indoor padded floors with bedding, and outdoor solid and grassy areas. The inside of our kennel is well lit, thoroughly ventilated, air conditioned and heated, and clean. They have soft bedding, toys, music, get treats every day, and grooming as needed. They always have fresh flowing water (no buckets or bowls) that is softened and rust free. We even have a water treatment system that dispenses antibiotics to the entire kennel should they pick up something from when they are out in the yard. The outside of the kennel is partially covered so our dogs can be outside even if it is raining or snowing. We have plenty of land, so we will be increasing the size of the yard area as needed. We are working on some renovations during 2011, and after that planm to open the kennel up to visitors.
When whelping, each mother has a quiet private area to whelp and take care of her pups. She can come and go as she needs to get a break from her puppies, and she also gets out every day to play with the other moms. When the puppies are 6 weeks old they also get out to play and socialize with other puppies on a daily basis.
We have visitors by appointment only. When you´re here, you can see which ever litter you are interested in. You can visit the parents if weather permits; however, the only people that are allowed in the kennel itself at this time are the USDA or State inspectors, our Veterinarians, and our employees. The USDA strongly encourages us to never let anyone inside our kennel for legal reasons, but we understand that people want to see the living are of our dogs, so after our 2011 renovations we hope to open it up to visitors.